Following Basho’s track in Fukushima and Kunimi, May 22, 2017 (芭蕉 の 福島 と 国見 路を追って 2017年5月22日)

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Basho left Kitamachi, the central part of current Fukushima City, and continued his journey. Photo above was an old Oshu Highway Site remained as it was in Kunimi Town. The site is located about 200m apart from the current National Route 4 and is called Nagasaka Site of an old Kunimi Pass. Basho traveled through this route and his memorial monument stood there.
芭蕉は、現福島市の中心にある北町を出て、旅を続けました。写真は、国見町に残る旧奥州街道がそのまま残る場所です。国道4号から200mほど離れており、旧国見峠の長坂跡と呼ばれています。芭蕉はここを通り、記念碑も残されています。

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The first destination of Basho after leaving Kitamachi was Mochizuri Kannon in the east of Fukushima City. As I visited there today, I found Basho’s statue in front and his monument of Haiku poem in the central precinct as shown above.
北町を出て、芭蕉がまず向かったのは、福島市の東にある文知摺(もちずり)観音でした。本日、そこの入口には、芭蕉の像が立っており、境内の中ほどには、芭蕉の句碑がありました(写真)。

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The old historic temple dates back more than 700 years. Since then many historic buildings and monuments had been built at the site. A board above tells us the history.
由緒あるこのお寺は、700年以上前に遡ります。それ以来、数々の建物や記念碑が境内に建てられてきました。写真の説明板が、歴史を語ります。

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Then he visited Ioji Temple in the west which was located in the current Iizaka Onsen district. The temple started in 826 as described in a board above. The precinct was large as shown in the picture above.
そのあと、飯坂温泉の近くにある医王寺を尋ねました。このお寺は、説明板の通り、826年に開基しました。写真のように、境内はとても広いです。

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Basho then visited hot spring site of Iizaka Onsen. I went to the site he was said to have visited, where a panel shown above stood. It said that this site called Takinoyu Site had long been considered Basho’s bathing and staying place at Iizaka Onsen. But the recent research showed that he might have been to other places such as Sabakoyu or Tozayu, both of which were within this hot spring resort.
そのあと、飯坂温泉に泊まりました。芭蕉が訪れたとされる場所に行くと、写真のパネルが立っていました。それによると、ここ滝ノ湯跡は、芭蕉が入浴したと長らく伝えられてきましたが,最近の研究で、ここよりも鯖湖湯か当座湯が有力とあります。両者とも、飯坂温泉にあります。

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Finally, he headed toward Miyagi Prefecture in the north. There was a historic site in Kunimi Town where he traveled on the way as I introduced at the beginning. At Nagasaka Site of an old Kunimi Pass not so far from border with Miyagi Pref., there was a board as shown above which described his hard journey in his own words from “Okuno-hosomichi”. He said that he struggled through Kunimi Pass getting some illness and recognizing his long way ahead north. But he managed to pass the route with his innocent and vital spirit.
次の早朝、宮城の方に出発しました。最初に紹介した通り、国見町に芭蕉が通った旧道が残っています。宮城県境からも遠くない、この国見峠の長坂跡には、芭蕉の綴った厳しい旅の様子(写真)が、記念碑として残っています。彼は、まだ行先も長いのに、病にもかかり、そのときの心境を語っています(奥の細道より)。

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The picture above shows the current border between Fukushima and Miyagi, where I ended this journey which followed Basho’s tracks in Fukushima.
写真は、今の福島と宮城県境です。今回、芭蕉の福島路を追った私のチャリ旅はここで終わります。

The exact route and locations are shown in the map below. The map can be scaled up and down with a click and scroll.
ルートと場所は、下の地図を参照ください。地図は、クリックとスクロールで、拡大・縮小が可能です。
20170522芭蕉_福島から国見 (560x419)

Following Basho’s track in Koriyama and Nihonmatsu, May 21, 2017 (芭蕉 の 郡山と二本松 路を追って 2017年5月21日)

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After leaving Sukagawa, Basho’s first destination was Otsujigataki Falls of the Abukuma River. The waterfall was located on the border of today’s Sukagawa City and Tamakawa Village and the view as of today looked as shown above. Seeing the waterfall, Basho created a Haiku poem which said “Samidareno Takifuriuzumu Mizukasakana”, which meant the waterfall was abundant of water with seasonal rain in June.
須賀川を立ち、芭蕉の最初の目的地は、阿武隈川の乙字ヶ滝でした。滝は、今の須賀川市と玉川村の境界にあり、写真は今日の姿です。滝を見て、芭蕉は「五月雨の 滝降りうづむ 水かさ哉」の句をつくりました。梅雨の時期で、水量が多かったようです。

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Then Basho and Sora traveled along the old Oshu Highway to Koriyama. On the way, they stopped at Tamura Shrine, which was located in the southern Tamura district of the city. The shrine looked as shown above today and a board in the precinct told us about his visit here in 1689.
そのあと、芭蕉と曽良は、旧奥州街道沿いに、郡山に向かいました。途中、今の郡山市田村町にある、田村神社に参拝しました。写真は、本日の田村神社と、芭蕉が1689年に訪れた説明板です。

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They continued their journey northward and arrived at Hiwada district of Koriyama. They visited Asakayama which was a small hill along Oshu Highway. The name was famous as it had appeared a number of times in Tanka and Haiku poems. Basho was looking for small iris flowers, which was called Hanakatsumi in Japanese or its academic name was “Iris gracilipes”. This was explained in a board above.
更に北に進み、今の郡山市の日和田地区に到着します。ここで、旧奥州街道沿いにある、安積山(現安積山公園)を訪ねます。安積山は、昔から短歌や俳句の歌枕として、良く知られていました。芭蕉は、ここで、花かつみ(ヒメシャガ)を尋ねあるいた、とあります。

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I found some of Hanakatsumi iris flowers on the slope of Asakayama as shown above. There also was a board which told us that the flower was designated as the flower of Koriyama City.
安積山の斜面には、花かつみが咲いていました(写真)。また、郡山市の花に指定したとの説明板もありました。

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Basho also visited Asakanuma Swamp close to Asakayama and looked for the same flower. Asakanuma Swamp site was no more swamp today and all the area were rice fields as shown in the picture above. The condition was similar even when Basho visited more than 300 years ago as the “Asakanuma Swamp Site” description board above told us.
芭蕉は、安積山の近くの、安積沼にも行き、花かつみを探したとあります。現在、安積沼は無く、写真の通り、周りは全て田んぼになっています。実は、300年前に芭蕉が訪れたときも、似たような状況だったようです(安積沼跡の説明板参照)。

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Then Basho traveled further north to Nihonmatsu. His destination was a historic Kurotsuka Site. There was an old story of merciless witch who lived in Kurotsuka Site, but finally she was killed and buried under Kurotsuka Mound. Her large stone house called “Iwaya”, and Kurotsuka Mound were preserved at the site. Photos above show an outside view of the site, Iwaya stone house, and Kurotsuka Mound.
このあと、芭蕉は二本松に向かいます。彼の目的地は、黒塚でした。黒塚には、鬼婆伝説があり、ここの岩屋に住んでいたが、とうとう殺されて黒塚の下に葬られたとのことです。現在、安達が原の黒塚には、写真のように、岩屋と黒塚が保存されています。

Actually, Basho stayed a night at Hiwada post village, and the next day he moved to Nihonmatsu and finally to Kitamachi of Fukushima City where he stayed another night. Today, I traveled from Sukagawa to Fukushima in a day and stayed a night near Kitamachi area. Tomorrow is the last journey for me traveling through the northern part of Fukushima Prefecture.
芭蕉は、この間、安積山のある日和田に1泊し、次の日に、二本松の黒塚、そして福島市の北町まで行きました。私は、須賀川から福島市まで1日で来て、今夜は北町の近くに泊まります。明日は、芭蕉の県北の旅を追い、最終日になります。

The exact route and locations are shown in the map below. The map can be scaled up and down with a click and scroll.
ルートと場所は、下の地図を参照ください。地図は、クリックとスクロールで、拡大・縮小が可能です。
20170521芭蕉_郡山から二本松 (560x420)

Following Basho’s track in Sukagawa, May 20, 2017 (芭蕉 の 須賀川 路を追って 2017年5月20日)

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Leaving Shirakawa, Basho traveled to Yabuki and then to Sukagawa. Photo above is a set of statues of Basho and his talented disciple Sora at Kagenuma Swamp Site. They visited this place in Kagamiishi Town on the way to Sukagawa. The site was no more swamp today but the surrounding area was all but beautiful rice fields.
白河を出て、芭蕉は矢吹、そして須賀川へと旅しました。写真は、途中のかげ沼での、芭蕉とその門人の曽良(そら)の像です。須賀川への途中の鏡石(かがみいし)町にあります。現在、この地は沼ではありませんが、周りは全て美しい田んぼで囲まれています。

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After leaving Shirakawa, the two walked along the old Oshu Highway. Today, only a small part of the road retains the atmosphere of that day. For example, the old road which runs through Gohonmatsu district of Yabuki Town shows similar view of that day as shown above except the paved surface. The panel tells us that two old tea houses used to host travelers with good water and rest.
白河を出た後,二人は旧奥州街道を歩きました。現在、この道には、昔の面影がほんの少し残っています。例えば、矢吹町の五本松地区を走る旧道は、写真のように舗装面を除いて昔と似ています。説明板には、茶屋が2軒あり、旅人に良い水と休み処を提供したとあります。

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Photos above show today’s view of Kagenuma Swamp Site, where the statues of the two are located, and the history description.
写真は、現在のかげ沼と、その歴史の説明板です。

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Then I stopped at another historic place called Serizawa Falls Site, where the two Haiku poets visited. Today, only a board describing history of the site and a memorial remain at the site as shown in the pictures above. The board tells us the waterfall was full of water at the time of their visit.
そのあと、芹沢の滝跡と呼ぶ、もう一つの史跡に寄りました。今は、石碑と説明板のみですが、芭蕉と曽良が訪れたときは、大きな水量の滝だったとのことです。

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Entering Sukagawa along the old Oshu Highway, there was a historic milestone site called Sukagawa Ichirizuka Site as shown above. A couple of boards described the structure and the history. Mounds with trees on both sides of the road in the view show a set of milestones placed every 4km in the old days. This is a national historic site.
旧奥州街道に沿って須賀川に入ると、須賀川の一里塚と呼ぶ史跡があります(写真)。説明板は、その構造と歴史を説明し、道の両側に対になっている塚と木が一里塚になっています。国指定の史跡です。

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Basho and Sora finally arrived at the center of Sukagawa post town, which was called Motomachi. A man named Tokyu welcomed them and the two stayed in this town for as long as eight days. The house they stayed was gone but a sign board shown above told us the exact location. They also visited a simple house called Kashin-an shown above, which was owned by a friend priest of Tokyu. All these were located within a small historic area called Motomachi.
芭蕉と曽良は、須賀川の中心の本町(もとまち)に着きました。そこの等躬という方に出迎えられ歓迎を受け、ここに8日間いることになります。等躬の家は、今はもうないですが、その跡が写真のように残っています。その間、近くの可伸庵という家も訪れており,その名残が写真のように残っています。これらの史跡は、全てこの小さな本町の中にあります。

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I found an interesting picture in a corner, which showed his popular Haiku poem “Furyuno Hajimeya-okuno Taue-uta” created during this visit.
そこに、芭蕉が須賀川で詠んだ有名な俳句、「風流の初やおくの田植うた」がのった、写真の絵がありました。

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There also was a small museum in the same area as shown above called Bashokinenkan or Basho Memorial Hall which was dedicated to Basho. Staff members can provide detailed information and brochures free of charge.
また、本町には、芭蕉記念館という小さな資料館もあります。芭蕉の情報や資料など、提供してくれます。

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At last I visited Junenji Temple shown above, where Basho also visited while in Sukagawa. The temple was established in 1593. (Basho traveled in 1689.)
最後に、写真の十念寺に行きました。1593年開山のお寺で、芭蕉も訪れています。

I stayed tonight near Motomachi area of Sukagawa and my bike trip continues tomorrow.
今夜は、本町に近くの宿に泊まり、明日またその先を続けます。

The exact route and locations are shown in the map below. The map can be scaled up and down with a click and scroll.
ルートと場所は、下の地図を参照ください。地図は、クリックとスクロールで、拡大・縮小が可能です。
20170520芭蕉の道_須賀川 (560x420)
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A man who loves Fukushima (福島大好きおじさん)

Author:A man who loves Fukushima (福島大好きおじさん)
Local guide for Fukushima (English)(福島特例通訳案内士(英語))
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