Mt. Hiuchi climbing and autumn landscape of Oze, September 25-27, 2019. (燧ヶ岳登山と尾瀬の秋景色 2019年9月25-27日)

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(Mt. Hiuchi view, Oze, September 27, 2019. 燧ヶ岳 尾瀬沼 檜枝岐 9/27/2019)
During this 3-day period, an autumn high pressure system covered Fukushima Prefecture and it was perfect days for outing. I headed to Oze National Park located in the most southwestern part of the prefecture. My main purpose was climbing Mt. Hiuchi which has the highest peak of 2,356 meters above sea level. This is the highest among all the mountains in northern Japan including Tohoku and Hokkaido. Photo above was an early morning view of Mt. Hiuchi reflected on misty water of Lake Ozenuma just after sunrise. This was taken in the next morning after I luckily made to the summit of the mountain. The view was from backyard observatory of Chozogoya lodge where I stayed overnight.
この3日間、秋の移動性高気圧が福島県を覆い絶好の外出日和でした。県の最も南西部にある尾瀬国立公園に行きました。目的は、標高2,356mの燧ヶ岳に登ることでした。この山は、東北・北海道を含めて一番高い山です。写真は、早朝日の出後の尾瀬沼の朝霧に反映した燧ヶ岳です。登った日の次の朝に、泊まった長蔵小屋の裏の展望デッキから撮りました。
朝霧に 逆さも霞む 燧岳

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Photo above shows a sign post for the highest peak called Shibayasugura (2,356m).
写真は、燧ヶ岳の最高峰の柴安嵓(しばやすぐら、2,356m)の頂上です。

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Photo above shows the largest marsh in Honshu Island called Ozegahara taken from Shibauyasugura. The high mountain in the back is Mt. Shibutsu (2,228m) in Gunma Prefecture.
柴安嵓から望む、本州最大の尾瀬ヶ原湿原です。向こうに見える山は、群馬県の至仏山(2,228m)です。

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Photo above shows a view at the second highest peak of Mt. Hiuchi called Manaitagura (2,346m). A post seen in the rightmost is the second order triangulation point.
燧ヶ岳の2番目の峰が、爼嵓(まないたぐら、2,346m)で、写真の一番右に二等三角点が見えます。

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(Minobuchidake and Lake Ozenuma view from Manaitagura, September 26, 2019. 爼嵓より見るミノブチ岳と尾瀬沼 9/26/2019)
I chose Choeishindo trail for the round trip to get to the higher level of the mountain. This trail first took me to Minobuchidake peak (2,210m) where one can overlook Lake Ozenuma (1,660m) on the foot as shown above. This picture was taken from Manaitagura and the small mountain near the center was Minobuchidake..
山に登る道は、往復とも長英新道を使いました。これで行くと、最初にミノブチ岳(2,210m)にでます。ここから、写真で見るように尾瀬沼が見下ろせます。この写真は、爼嵓から撮ったもので手前の小高い山がミノブチ岳になります。

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(Manaitagura view, from Minobuchidake, September 26, 2019. ミノブチ岳より見た爼嵓 9/26/2019)
From Minobuchidake I had to head for Manaitagura which stood ahead with a steep rocky slope as shown above.
ミノブチ岳からは、写真の険しい岩だらけの爼嵓を目指します。

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(Shibayasugura view, from Manaitagura, September 26, 2019. 爼嵓より見た柴安嵓 9/26/2019)
From Manaitagura peak you can see the final destination, the highest peak Shibayasugura as shown above, with down and up the trail.
爼嵓に到着すると、最終目的地の写真の柴安嵓と、下ってまた上る道が見えます。

The climbing took place in the middle day which was 26th. I started at 7 in the morning from Chozogoya lodge, and after I made the summit I descended and I could finally reach the lodge at 5:30 in the evening. It took 10.5 hours for me with my legs entirely exhausted. (This was much slower than average in general.) However, I am grateful for the perfect weather and safe return.
登山は、中日の26日にしましたが、朝7時に長蔵小屋を出発し、頂上に着いた後下って小屋に戻ったのが夕方の5時半でした。標準よりはるかに遅い10時間半もかかってしまい、足はがくがくです。ただ天気は最高で、無事帰着しただけで感謝です。

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(Autumn view of Oe Marsh, Oze, September 25, 2019. 大江湿原 草紅葉 9/25/2019)
In the first day, I entered Oze National Park via Numayamatoge, Hinoemata. A local Aizu Bus took me to a trailhead for the pass. Soon after passing Numayama Pass, autumn color marsh field appeared as shown above. This was Oe Marsh, which is abundant of a variety of alpine flowers between June and August.
初日は、檜枝岐の沼山峠口から尾瀬に入りました。会津高原尾瀬口駅から会津バスで、登山口まで行きます。歩いて沼山峠を通過して間もなく、写真の草紅葉の景色が広がります。ここは、6月から8月までは高山植物の花でいっぱいの大江湿原です。

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(Gentiana triflora at Oe Marsh, Oze, September 25, 2019. 大江湿原 エゾリンドウ 9/25/2019)
The last flower at this marsh in late September was gentiana triflora as shown above.
大江湿原も、9月の下旬になると写真のエゾリンドウが最後の花となります。
湿原の リンドウ語る 秋さなか

There are six mountains in Fukushima Prefecture which were designated as the best 100 in Japan: Mt. Adatara, Mt. Bandai, Mt. Azuma, Mt. Aizukoma, Mt. Iide, and Mt. Hiuchi. Mount Hiuchi was the last one I made to the summit.
福島には、日本百名山と言われる山が6座あります。安達太良山、磐梯山、吾妻山、会津駒ヶ岳、飯豊山、そして燧ヶ岳です。今回の燧ヶ岳が私にとっては最後でした。

The exact route and locations are shown in the map below. The map can be scaled up and down with a click and scroll.
ルートと場所は、下の地図を参照ください。地図は、クリックとスクロールで、拡大・縮小が可能です。
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Nomakake, the last event for Soma-nomaoi Festival at Odaka, July 29, 2019. (野馬懸、相馬野馬追の最後の日です、2019年7月29日。)

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(Driving a bare horse at Nomakake, Odaka, July 29, 2019. 野馬懸の野馬追 小高 7/29/2019)
Today I was one of the large spectators at Nomakake, the last day event for 3-day Soma-nomaoi Festival in Soma region. Nomakake retains the very original style of the Soma-nomaoi, which was originated in military exercise in 900’s started by ancestors of Soma clan. At that time, wild horses were released as mock enemy. Today, three unsaddled horses were once released, one at a time, and then several mounted horsemen drove the horse into a corral in front of Soma Odaka Shrine. After all the three horses were driven into the corral, then several men, called Okobito, wearing white Shinto clothing and headband tried to catch the horses with their bare hands. Once the horse was captured, then it was offered to the shrine, where guardian god for Soma clan was enshrined. Photo above shows a horseman leading a bare white horse along a slope toward the corral.
本日は、相馬野馬追の最後のイベント、野馬懸を見ました。野馬懸は、900年代に相馬家の祖先が始めた相馬野馬追の原型を残している行事です。当時、軍事訓練で野馬を敵に見立てたのが始まりです。今日では、3頭の野馬が1頭ずつ放たれ、騎馬武者達が小高神社前の敷地に追い込みます。そのあと、白装束と白はちまきをした「御小人」達が、素手で野馬を捕まえようとします。捕らえられた馬は、相馬家の氏神が祀られている神社に奉納されます。写真は、騎馬武者が白い野馬を導いて坂を登る姿です。

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(Conch shell horn blowers at Nomakake, Odaka, July 29, 2019. 野馬懸 の ホラ貝吹き 小高 7/29/2019)
Right before the horse driving began, conch shell horn blowers, as shown above, came in the middle of the slope to signal a start. You may see the closer view of the conch shell here.
馬の追い込みが始まる直前には、写真のように、ホラ貝吹きが坂の中間にきて、合図の準備をします。ホラ貝の形がよく見えます。

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After the bare horse led by a mounted horseman, several chaser horsemen followed, as shown above, running up the hill.
野馬の後には、写真のように、数人の騎馬武者が追って駆け上がってきます。

By watching a short footage below, you may feel the atmosphere of the scene of driving a horse up the hill. This was of the second horse drive.
下の極短いビデオを見ると、野馬を追い込むシーンの雰囲気が少しわかると思います。
これは、2番目の野馬でした。


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In the last drive, an unsaddled horse chased by mounted horsemen from behind barely crashed into spectators’ area as shown above. (No one was injured.)
最後の野馬の場合は、写真のように見物客の極近くまで迫り、危ういところでした。(問題ありませんでした。)

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(Chasing bare horses at Nomakake, Odaka, July 29, 2019. 野馬懸 の 野馬追 小高 7/29/2019)
Photo above was a scene that three horses driven into the field in front of the shrine are trying to escape from Okobito men in white shrine suits trying to catch them.
写真は、3頭の野馬が神社前の囲い敷地で、白装束の「御小人」達に捕まえられないように、逃げている場面です。

And here is a very short video that a young Okobito man tried to catch a horse but finally failed at this time. You may feel the atmosphere.
下の極短いビデオでは、1人の御小人が野馬を捕らえかけましたが、最後は失敗しました。雰囲気がわかると思います。


During the first and second days of Soma-nomaoi Festival, I attended a group as a translator. But the last day was free and I stayed overnight there and visited this event for the first time. The event venue was Soma Odaka Shrine which was located 20-minute walk from JR Odaka Station.
相馬野馬追の最初の2日は、あるグループの通訳ガイドでした。しかし、最終日はフリーとなり野馬懸を初めて見ました。会場は、JR小高駅から徒歩20分の相馬小高神社です。
(お客の数は、前日より減りましたが、会場ぎっしりでした。)

The exact route and locations are shown in the map below. The map can be scaled up and down with a click and scroll. GPS data for a part of the section from Odaka Station was missing due to slow detection of my GPS device, so I added a line on the map.
ルートと場所は、下の地図を参照ください。地図は、クリックとスクロールで、拡大・縮小が可能です。但し、小高駅から少しの間、GPSデータが無く(機械の反応が遅く)地図上に線で補足しました。
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Buddhist priest Tokuitsu and restored Yakushinyorai statue at Enichiji Temple, June 22, 2019. (徳一と慧日寺薬師如来 2019年6月22日)

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(Yakushinyorai at Enichiji Temple, Bandai, June 22, 2019. 慧日寺 の 薬師如来 磐梯町 6/22/2019)
Today I visited Enichiji Temple site and learned about Buddhist priest Tokuitsu, who founded the temple in 807, and Yakushinyorai or Buddha of healing which was the main image of the temple. Yakushinyorai statue was built in the very beginning of the temple foundation but has been burnt or damaged several times since then by fire and civil war. It has been restored every time it suffered a damage and the last fire was in 1872 when most of the body was burnt. Last year in 2018 the statue was restored again as close as possible to the original one at early 800’s. The photo above shows the current restored statue which was designed to look as it was when it was first built.
本日は、磐梯町にある慧日寺跡で、このお寺を807年に開基した徳一とお寺の本尊である薬師如来について学びました。この薬師如来は、創建時からありましたが、その後度重なる火事や戦火で被災し、その度に再建されますが、最後は1872年(明治5年)に焼けました。昨年、800年代初期の創建時に限りなく近い形で再建され、写真のようになっています。

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Tokuitsu was a high-ranking Buddhist priest who lived between late 700’s and early 800’s. He learnt Hosso sect of Buddhism at Kofukuji Temple in Nara Prefecture, also known as a world heritage site. Nara, in the western part of Japan, was the political center at that time. But during his young age he started to move eastward aiming to spread Buddhism mainly in Ibaraki and Fukushima Prefectures. Photo above, which was a display at the site, shows a replica statue of Tokuitsu with a spearhead like thing at the bottom left. This thing was called “Sankosho” which was a rare treasure at that time made from cupronickel and was the evidence of highly respected person. Enichiji Temple was the center of Aizu Buddhism but he also established about 90 temples in Fukushima, Ibaraki and surrounding prefectures. Shojoji Temple was the most valuable one with many national treasures and important assets preserved to this date. Sitting statue of Tokuitsu made in 12th century was one of them.
徳一は、700年代中期から800年代初期(奈良時代中期から平安初期)に生きた高僧で、奈良の興福寺(世界遺産)で法相宗を学びました。その後、若いうちに仏教を広めようと東の方に向かい茨城と福島およびその周辺で活動しました。写真は、慧日寺資料館の展示にあったもので、徳一像(レプリカ)と三鈷杵(さんこしょ)が左下に置かれています。白銅製の三鈷杵は、当時の貴重な宝物で高僧の証となります。慧日寺は会津仏教の中心地でしたが、徳一はこの他にも、福島や茨城を中心に90ものお寺を建てています。その中でも、会津の湯川村にある勝常寺は、国宝や重文が多く残っており、極めて重要です。12世紀に作られた徳一座像もその1つです。

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Today I attended a class held at the site where a curator of Fukushima Prefectural Museum gave us a lecture on the history of Tokuitsu and the spread of Buddhism in Aizu region. Some of the explanation panels on Tokuitsu and Yakushinyorai Buddha at Enichiji Temple were on display at the site as shown above. Enichiji site is located about 20-minute walk from JR Bandaimachi Station.
本日は、会場となった慧日寺跡で、福島県立博物館の学芸員の方の「徳一と会津の仏教美術」のお話がありました。写真は、会場の説明パネルのいくつかです。慧日寺跡は、JR磐梯町駅から徒歩20分です。

The exact route and locations are shown in the map below. The map can be scaled up and down with a click and scroll.
ルートと場所は、下の地図を参照ください。地図は、クリックとスクロールで、拡大・縮小が可能です。
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A man who loves Fukushima (福島大好きおじさん)

Author:A man who loves Fukushima (福島大好きおじさん)
Local guide for Fukushima (English)(福島地域通訳案内士(英語))
Member of Omotenashi Guide Fukushima
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Omotenashi Guide Fukushima 2019 Calendar
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